The Geneva Maison celebrates its 50th anniversary by dressing its most acclaimed collection in tuxedo-inspired dials, and the result is one of the most compelling watches under $2,500.
The Millesime Small Seconds already had form. It took home the Challenge Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, an award reserved for the best watches under CHF 2,000, which put Raymond Weil in rare company for an independent, family-owned brand competing against the usual Swiss heavyweights.
Now, as the Maison turns 50, it's given that same watch a new wardrobe, and it's a sharp one.
The 2026 Millesime Small Seconds draws on the tuxedo dial, a design rooted in the Art Deco era that's quietly making a comeback across the industry. The concept is simple: bold two-tone contrasts that split the dial into light and dark zones, much like the lapel and shirt of a well-cut dinner suit. It's formal without being stuffy, detailed without being busy.
Three colourways tell the story. The black and white (ref. 2930-STC-05642) is the purist's pick, all classic evening-wear energy with a cream centre against a glossy black hour ring.
The midnight blue and black (ref. 2930-STC-05502) is moodier, deeper, with that same formal backbone but a richer warmth to it.
And then there's the red grape with light grey (ref. 2930-STC-05450), which is the curveball of the trio, more contemporary, more adventurous, and the one that'll likely get people talking.
What the Dial Does DifferentlyLook closer and there's genuine craft in the layering here. The centre of each dial is vertically satin-brushed with a structural crosshair and a raw V-shaped groove cut through it, a nod to the industrial side of Art Deco that most brands tend to overlook.
The glossy lacquered index ring sits on top, creating a contrast in both colour and texture, whilst the azure minute track adds a sense of lightness around the perimeter. The small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock sits recessed within an opaline ring, giving the whole dial a sense of depth that you don't often see at this price point.
Above it all sits a domed glassbox sapphire crystal, a vintage-inspired touch that catches light beautifully and gives the watch a rounded, almost pillowy profile from the side.
The obelisk-shaped hands are treated with Super-LumiNova for low-light legibility, and at 39mm across and just 10.25mm thick, the case wears slim and comfortable on the wrist.
Fifty Years of Doing It Their WayRaymond Weil has always occupied an interesting position in Swiss watchmaking. Founded in 1976 and still family-run under CEO Elie Bernheim, the founder's grandson, it's one of the few independent Geneva houses that hasn't been absorbed into a luxury conglomerate.
That matters, because it means decisions like this, putting genuine design ambition into a sub-$2,500 watch, are made on their own terms.
The RW4251 movement inside is a mechanical self-winding calibre with a 41-hour power reserve. It's visible through a sapphire caseback, where you'll also spot the brand's signature W-shaped oscillating weight.
Each reference comes on a calfskin leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a subtle W-shaped stitch detail, though a stainless steel bracelet option is also available.
At $2,295 USD (around $2,250 EUR), this is serious Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price. The GPHG win wasn't a fluke, and these new tuxedo dials prove the Millesime has more chapters in it yet.
Specifications Reference2930-STC-05642 / 2930-STC-05502 / 2930-STC-05450MovementMechanical self-winding, Calibre RW4251Power Reserve41 hoursFunctionsHours, minutes, small secondsCaseStainless steel, 39mm diameter, 10.25mm thickCrystalGlassbox sapphire, dual-sided anti-reflective coatingCase BackSapphire crystal displayWater Resistance50m / 5 ATMStrapCalfskin leather (also available on stainless steel bracelet)PriceCHF 2,075 / USD $2,295 / EUR €2,250 / GBP £1,950Read the full article Raymond Weil’s Award-Winning Millesime Just Got a Black-Tie Makeover on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!
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